You save money on dealer fees, taxes, and expensive break-in services, and all you have to do in return is let someone else put the first few thousand miles on your bike for you.
Assuming the previous owner(s) took good care of the bike and aren't trying to hide anything, buying used is a no-brainer, but therein lies the problem: how do you know you're buying a good motorcycle from a good person?
Below we'll share our personal checklist for buying a used adventure motorcycle, as well as some of the most common questions we hear from our clients and readers who want to skip the dealer fees.
Buying a used adventure motorcycle is a great idea. It saves you thousands of dollars over the cost of a new bike, and also lets you skip the expensive dealer fees and break-in services associated with a brand new motorcycle.
The tradeoff is that you're taking the risk of buying a motorcycle with an "unknown" history, and typically one that's no longer covered by a factory warranty. Knowing what to look out for in a used bike is the best way to mitigate this risk.
You're looking for cleanliness. Regardless of total mileage, an exceptionally clean motorcycle is the ideal starting point.
Signs of abuse or neglect like a heavily rusted chain or a grime-caked engine speak to potentially larger issues with the current owner.
Speaking of which, you're also looking for the ideal seller when buying a used motorcycle.
You want the OCD guy that cleans his bikes with a toothbrush after every ride, keeps every spare part and bolt, and knows the machine inside and out.
Apart from that, to put it simply, you're looking for the lowest-mileage machine you can find for the least amount of cash possible.
Don't settle for the first good-looking bike you see: shop around, take your time, and wait for the right one to come to you.
There's a lot more to consider when buying a used adventure bike than the price of the bike itself. You may be skipping the dealer fees by buying used, but there are always additional expenses beyond the asking price.
The most immediate is handling your taxes and registration. For reference, we recently purchased a used Yamaha Tenere for $8,600, and then immediately had to turn around and spend another $600 to register it in the state of Georgia.
Next will come any immediate maintenance your bike needs before you do any serious riding. A few laps around town won't hurt, but you should always factor in the immediate cost of an oil change into your budget.
Other potential expenses include wear items like tires and brake pads, the cost of protective gear (helmets, boots, etc), and performing any known safety/reliability upgrades recommended for your machine.
You should know as much about your motorcycle of choice as possible before you ever meet up with a seller. Don't count on them to volunteer information that could negatively impact the sale price.
For example, if you know a valve service is due in a few hundred miles, you can factor that into the price. The owner may tell you their bike is "up to date" on maintenance, but conveniently leave out that a big service bill is looming right around the corner.
The same goes for any known issues and/or factory recalls. A good owner will be as obsessive as you, and will be able to answer questions about their ownership experience and any fixes they've done.
You should also know the market for your bike. Spend some time on Facebook Marketplace learning what different years and mileages realistically sell for.
This allows you to skip the BS and make strong, competitive offers without risk of overpaying.
One of the most important parts of buying a used adventure motorcycle is interviewing the seller. This is your opportunity to deduce what the bike's life has been like before your ownership.
The first and most important question is "Why are you selling it?" There are plenty of legitimate answers to this question, but we ask because we want to ensure the real answer isn't "Something is wrong, and I can't fix it," or "It's about to cost me a lot of money."
Next, we want to know how the motorcycle has been used, aka, where the miles came from. Has it spent much time off-road? Was it mainly an interstate queen? A bike with 15,000 interstate miles has lived a much easier life than a 15,000-mile trail machine.
You'll want to ask if it's ever been crashed, dropped, or tipped over. Accidents happen, and this isn't necessarily a deal-breaker, but whether or not the seller is being honest about it is important. We'll suss that part out later during our inspection.
You should also ask about any upgrades and/or modifications, whether or not there are any known mechanical concerns (leaks, odd noises, rough idle, etc.), and whether the owner keeps detailed service records.
Last but not least, ask if there are any spare parts: owners will often throw these in to sweeten the deal if you ask, but are just as likely to keep them to try to make some extra cash if you don't.
Once we've gone through our list of questions for the seller, it's time for a thorough inspection.
We do this to get an idea of the motorcycle's condition, but also to "fact-check" the seller's answers to our questions to see if they're trustworthy.
Here's our go-to inspection checklist for buying a used adventure motorcycle.
Here we're looking at the frame, swingarm, bar ends, controls, fork legs, and any other external parts that may show signs of a crash, such as rash, bending, or cracking.
Again, we're checking for transparency here as well as the actual condition of the bike.
AKA, look for leaks. Check both the top and bottom ends of the engine for leaking oil or the excessive road grime that accompanies it. Check the radiator cap, reservoir, and coolant lines for signs of leaks or corrosion.
Check the forks for leaking seals (dripping oil), then bounce the front end a few times and check again. Inspect the bump stop in the rear shock for excessive wear. Check the fork tubes and stanchions for bends, scratches, or dents.
Check rims for any cracks, dents, or loose spokes. Worn tires are common, but can be a great bargaining tool to lower your offer price. You'll also want to check for signs of tire repairs (plugs) that the seller may not have disclosed.
Checking bearings can be a bit trickier, but the simplest test is to simply tug back and forth on each wheel to check for "play" in any direction. If you're able to elevate the wheels on a centerstand, you can also spin them to check that they roll smoothly.
While most drivetrain components are replaceable, they can be expensive and labor-intensive. Chains should be clean and largely rust-free, and should rotate freely without any kinking, binding, or "crunching" noises.
You'll also want to check both the front and rear sprockets for obvious signs of wear. If the teeth of a sprocket are excessively thin, sharp, worn down, or outright missing, it's an added cost and a sure sign of neglect.
Your brake inspection should include the thickness of the pads, the condition of the rotors (no grooves or waves), and the brake lines themselves. Check for excessively dirty brake fluid in the reservoirs as well, as bad brake fluid slowly degrades parts over time.
Feel free to bring a multimeter to check battery health and charging if you want, but personally, we recommend just ensuring all the lights, blinkers, buttons, and accessories work. Give it a cold start, then shut it off and restart it before you take a test ride.
The biggest tell that an adventure bike has been crashed will be scratches or "rash" to plastic and metal parts. As noted above, you'll want to pay close attention to any part that would likely come in contact with the ground when the bike is dropped.
Engine cases, footpegs, handlebars, and controls are all common culprits. The same goes for crash bars, bark busters, and luggage racks: look for evidence of damage and/or repairs like repainted areas. Ask questions about anything you find.
Conversely, freshly replaced parts can also signal a crash has happened. If you've got new pegs, controls, and plastics on one side of the bike but not the other, it's worth asking the seller why.
Generally speaking, aftermarket modifications are one of the major advantages of buying a used adventure bike.
If the bike you want already has the exhaust, engine guards, and luggage you were going to buy anyway, they all add value.
That being said, poorly installed modifications can create problems. Incorrectly flashed ECUs and tunes can create fueling issues, while bad wiring splicing and soldering can create all sorts of difficult-to-diagnose gremlins.
Good service records will document all the service intervals noted in the owner's manual, and ideally, back them up with proper receipts from certified technicians.
For DIYers, a written maintenance log and a book of receipts are common documentation.
Good service records will include the basics like oil changes and air filters, but should also document major services. Any major work (like valve adjustments, belt replacements, etc.) should be documented with receipts to prove they were done correctly.
If you're buying a particularly expensive or complex bike, it's worth spending a few hundred extra bucks to have a qualified technician conduct a thorough inspection.
They can catch red flags you'd miss that might cost you thousands down the line.
For simpler or less expensive machines, however, inspections are usually overkill. If a bike is clean, starts and rides without issue, and comes with solid service records, we wouldn't lose too much sleep about skipping the inspection.
A proper cold start is an important part of buying a used adventure bike. A bike that starts readily with a cold engine is a good overall sign of a healthy motor, fuel, and electrical system.
You should tell the seller in advance that you need the bike to be completely cold for inspection. When you arrive, physically touch the engine and exhaust (with caution) to ensure there's no lingering heat in either from a recent start.
This is important because bikes with engine issues tend to make some funky noises when cold, like ticking, pinging, or knocking, but once the metal parts heat up and expand, these sounds can become less obvious or disappear completely.
Once the initial inspection is complete and you've agreed on a price, you'll need to take a test ride before signing any paperwork.
Think of your test ride as both a chance to see if you like the bike and a chance to actively evaluate its condition.
Start your test ride by starting the bike and listening to it idle as it comes up to operating temp. Keep an ear out for any signs of a rough idle or any engine noises that sound suspect. Knocking, pinging, and stuttering are red flags.
Next, you need to ensure the bike is physically safe to ride before you actually hit the road.
Check that both brakes function as they should, bounce the suspension to ensure it articulates smoothly, and confirm all your indicator lights are functioning.
The same goes for the clutch. Pull the clutch in and put the bike in gear, then slowly let it out and allow the bike to creep forward. This will familiarize you with the contact point and also let you know if there's any abruptness or "snatchiness" in the clutch.
Now it's time to hit the road proper. Your goal here is to run the bike through all its gears, give the brakes a proper shakedown, and get a feel for the chassis to ensure everything is aligned and functioning as it should.
We like to test this by getting the motorcycle up to 40- 50 mph, then slowly letting go of the handlebars. If the bike tracks in a straight line without any shudder or added vibration, chances are your fork, frame, and wheels are in good shape.
You can also test your brakes during the test ride by lightly applying each brake one at a time and feeling for any rhythmic pulsing or binding in the lever.
If there's any shudder or pulsation, you've likely got rotor or caliper issues.
So far we've described how a good used adventure motorcycle interaction should go. Now, let's take a moment to highlight some common red flags that could potentially stop any deal in its tracks.
There's no good reason to refuse or avoid letting a buyer perform a cold start on a used motorcycle. If a seller has any issue with this, walk away.
Ideally, you should be buying a used ADV with a clean and clear title that's owned outright in the seller's name. Never buy a bike without a title, even if a seller assures you you can register it without one. It's not worth the risk.
During your inspection, you should ask to see the title, and then carefully compare the VIN on the title with the number stamped on the headstock of the bike. If the two don't match up, it's not worth the hassle of trying to sort it out at the DMV.
If there's a suspiciously clean spot near the oil filter, drain bolt, or any of the gaskets on the engine, this could be a red flag for a hidden oil leak. Take the bike for a test ride and double-check these areas for weeps once the bike is hot.
Bikes crash all the time, especially ADVs. This isn't necessarily an issue if the seller is transparent about it, but if you discover signs of an undisclosed crash, it's best to assume the seller is dishonest and walk away.
It's common to see spliced or added wires on a bike with aftermarket parts. Avoid poorly wired/soldered connections that could impact the main harness and keep an eye out for "hack jobs" hidden beneath miles of duct tape.
Every time a bike changes hands, its maintenance documentation should come with it. If your bike doesn't come with any records whatsoever (especially on higher mileage machines), that's a red flag.
If a seller refuses to allow a proper inspection, you should just move on. They're either hiding something or are just impatient about making the sale, and either way, they're not the match you're looking for.
Also known as "it's too good to be true." There are some truly great deals out there, but if the price is inexplicably low, chances are there's a scam of some kind going on.
Once you get your bike home, you've got a few checklist items to hit before you can enjoy it. Used bike ownership should always start with an oil and filter change regardless of how recently the seller claims to have done it themselves.
Next, you'll want to check all your fluids (radiator, brakes, driveline) and cross-reference what has and hasn't been changed with any available service records. If there's any doubt about anything being overdue, go ahead and change it now.
Some bikes are known to go well over 100,000 miles with minimal issues, others struggle to see 30,000 without a major failure. The fewer miles you can find, the better, but we prefer our used adventure bikes under the 15,000-mile mark, generally speaking.
Absolutely. The latest crop of lightweight ADV bikes (think Royal Enfield Himalayan 450, Honda CRF300 Rally) are perfect for beginners. We'd caution against buying anything too tall or heavy, however, as lighter bikes are better for building confidence.
Low-speed drops rarely create any issues beyond cosmetic blemishes, and these bikes can be had for cheap if you don't mind a few scuffs. If someone dropped the bike in a driveway or gravel lot, it may impact the value, but it rarely impacts performance.
More serious or high-speed crashes should generally be avoided as they can create significant issues that aren't immediately apparent. There are plenty of fish in the sea; don't take a risk on someone's rebuilt project bike to save a few bucks.
As long as the modifications are desirable and well done, we'd argue that tastefully modified ADV bikes are more desirable than stock adventure bikes. If someone else is willing to pay for the skid plate and crash bars you would have bought yourself, let them.
The older and higher mileage the bike, the more important the service records. It's important that adventure bikes that have been around the block a few times have been systematically well taken care of throughout their lives to ensure future reliability.
You should always factor in the cost of an oil change after buying a new bike, but if it doesn't need any obvious maintenance, don't lose any sleep about budgeting for repairs. Know when major services are due and how much they cost, then save accordingly.|
Thanks for reading. We hope you found this useful and wish you the best on your ADV journey. If you have any additional questions, drop us a comment. We reply to every one of them!
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